Abu Dhabi is the capital of the United Arab Emirates and by far its largest emirate — roughly 87 percent of the country's land area, though the city itself holds about 1.5 million people. It is quieter and more deliberate than Dubai, and its major sights are cultural rather than commercial.
Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque
Opened in 2007, the mosque holds more than 40,000 worshippers under 82 domes and 1,096 columns. The prayer hall contains the largest hand-knotted carpet in the world — 5,627 square metres, woven by around 1,200 artisans in Iran to a design by Ali Khaliqi. Seven chandeliers hang above it; the largest is ten metres across and weighs roughly twelve tonnes.
The white marble came from Macedonia and Italy, inlaid with floral patterns in mother-of-pearl, lapis lazuli and amethyst. Sheikh Zayed, the founding president of the UAE, is buried beside it.
Entry is free. Women must cover hair, arms and legs — abayas are lent at the entrance at no charge; men need long trousers and sleeves. Visit late afternoon and stay for the floodlighting, which shifts with the phases of the moon.
Louvre Abu Dhabi
Jean Nouvel's museum opened on 11 November 2017 under a dome 180 metres across weighing 7,850 tonnes. Eight layers of perforated steel filter the sunlight into what Nouvel called a rain of light — the effect changes hour by hour and is the reason to come even before you look at the art.
The building sits on Saadiyat Island and shares its name with Paris under a thirty-year agreement worth around a billion euros. The collection is arranged chronologically across civilisations rather than by nation, which makes for unexpected neighbours in every room.
Palaces and the waterfront
- Qasr Al Watan — the working presidential palace, opened to visitors in 2019. The domed Great Hall and the library are the highlights.
- Qasr Al Hosn — the oldest building in the city, a watchtower begun around 1761 that grew into a fort and now houses a museum of the emirate's history.
- The Corniche — eight kilometres of promenade with a Blue Flag beach and separated cycling lanes.
- Mangrove National Park — kayaking through mangrove channels within sight of the skyline; book a guided paddle.
Yas Island
A purpose-built entertainment island. Ferrari World houses Formula Rossa, the fastest rollercoaster in the world at 240 km/h — riders wear goggles because of the speed. Alongside are Yas Waterworld, Warner Bros World and the Yas Marina Circuit, which has hosted the Formula 1 Abu Dhabi Grand Prix since 2009, usually as the closing race of the season.
Practical notes
- Abu Dhabi is 90 minutes by road from Dubai; frequent buses run between the two, and a taxi is affordable split between several people.
- Al Ain, inland, is worth a day: a UNESCO-listed oasis of falaj irrigation channels and the drive up Jebel Hafeet to 1,249 metres.
- Dress codes are applied more firmly than in Dubai, particularly in government buildings and religious sites.